Became Head Chef at Molskroen by Chance
Steffen Villadsen had some big shoes to fill when he started as head chef at Molskroen in early 2016, a place previously graced by chefs like Wassim Hallal and Michel Michaud.
Therefore, it was crucial for Steffen Villadsen to live up to the food and service that guests had come to expect at Molskroen. It quickly became apparent that Steffen could keep pace with his predecessors, and he intends to maintain that level going forward.
“People should be happy to come and dine here, and they should enjoy the food. That’s the most important ambition for me,” he says.
His landing the role of head chef at Molskroen was somewhat serendipitous. It all started years earlier when Steffen Villadsen, who trained at Hotel Phillip, decided he wanted to raise his ambitions.
“I set out to try the Michelin race in Copenhagen, so I started at Den Røde Cottage. That was the job that gave me the foundation to apply for the job at Molskroen,” says Steffen Villadsen.
After some years in Copenhagen, he got homesick and therefore applied for a job as a chef at Molskroen.
“Afterwards, I was told that Michel Michaud was moving back to Skagen, leaving the head chef position open. He had already given his approval of me, and after a meeting with the management, we agreed that I should take the position of head chef instead of chef,” says Steffen Villadsen.
Today, Steffen lives in Ebeltoft with his husband, where they enjoy having the sea nearby. This is also reflected in Molskroen’s menu, which often consists of light dishes with fish or shellfish.
“I actually feel a bit uneasy about main courses. I’m best at smaller dishes that don’t need much on the plate. So, main courses where the plate needs to be filled can be a bit daunting. That’s why you often see smaller dishes with fish or shellfish from us,” Steffen Villadsen says with a laugh.
We Ask – Steffen Answers
We asked Steffen Villadsen a range of questions so you can get to know him better. Among other things, you can find out which restaurants are his favorites and which dish he most frequently makes at home.
How did you end up at Molskroen?
It was a mix of coincidences and a then-head chef who believed in me.
I am from Jutland but had lived and worked on Zealand for several years. However, I started to miss my “homeland,” so in October 2015, I sent an application as a chef to Molskroen because I felt it fit my ambitions.
I was told that Michel Michaud (then-head chef, ed.) wanted to return to Skagen to work, so I met with the management to discuss becoming the head chef. It turned out that Michel Michaud had already vouched for me, so I was offered the job, which was somewhat of a dream job.
What are your ambitions for the place?
I have stepped into a house with a history of great head chefs. Initially, my ambition was to fill those shoes. I wanted to create good food and provide a service that could match the levels of previous head chefs.
Now, my ambitions have probably grown, because it turned out that I could make food that lived up to my predecessors. The most important thing is that people are happy to come here and eat here. So my ambition is to make good food that guests will come for.
Why did you become a chef?
It’s probably due to life – and chance. I’ve always wanted to work with food, and I like food. It’s been that way since I was quite young. It was in the back of my mind as a possibility. I went to high school first and then the military. When I returned, I had to figure out what to do next. I started in a kitchen by chance and discovered that I could see myself there. From there, it sort of snowballed.
What is your best memory from the kitchen?
When we were nominated for “Restaurant of the Year” in the Danish Dining Guide in 2019. It was an incredible day, and everything was perfect. The kitchen and wait staff harmonized, and everything came together beautifully.
Afterwards, I had the feeling that if it had been my last night as a chef, I would have been satisfied.
Which dish do you like to make the most?
My husband and I live in Ebeltoft – close to the water. So we love fish, and we are both happy when I make fried turbot. It should be with a good sauce – preferably made with white wine – and a good glass of white wine.
What is your show-off dish?
My signature dish at Molskroen, which consists of brown crab, cucumber, lemon, and caviar. It is a visually beautiful dish, with plenty of caviar. Caviar is always good when you want to show off.
As mentioned, it’s my signature dish, and it’s a dish that people hope we have on the menu when they come here in the summer.
@steffenvilladsen.
Read more about Molskroen on their website and on Instagram at @restaurant_molskroen.
Photos in the article are taken by Rais Foto.